Author: Steve
Day 01 – Culture, Coffee and Car Problems
Jet lag and election result shock meant I was wide awake at 5.00 in the morning, unable to get back to sleep. First light of dawn was a chance to look around the gardens at Villa Margarita. Why is it always such a surprise to see so many plants that are recognisable from gardens back… Read more
Day 02 – Horses, Topiary and Waterfalls
The Rancho Amalia cabins were in a lovely setting, with incredible views; cosy with a wood fire. The problem at night time were the trucks. The main road wasn’t far away and it wound around the valley such that you could hear each truck for ages as it made its way round the bends. These… Read more
Day 03 – Traffic Jams, Toucans and Waterfall Gardens
Just as I’d started posting these blogs we’ve ended up being off grid for two nights, no phone signal, no WiFi, electricity off at 10 pm. More about that later. I’m still trying to catch up so here goes… It was time to say goodbye to Rancho Amalia in the sunshine. Last night’s rain stopped… Read more
Day 04 – Volcan Poas, Wildlife and The Jungle House
First thing in the morning, there were amazing views across the Central Valley from the cabin. None towards the volcano, which was behind us. Jenny thought this was cheeky marketing – the website had shown a picture of the volcano! It was the perfect scene to admire first thing in the morning with a cup… Read more
Day 05 – Rafting and Night-time Wildlife
Woken at dawn by howler monkeys. We’d been forewarned. Just as well because it sounded like some creature was being murdered. Not a pleasant sound. We booked activities for our stay at Chillamate: a night-time nature walk for this evening; a bird watching tour tomorrow morning, and white water rafting this afternoon. Sarah denied that… Read more
Day 06 – Birds and Chocolate
The early morning bird watching tour was due to start at 5.30. Of course, this would be the morning with no howler monkey alarm call, no sleepless night worrying about driving up mountain tracks, no pouring rain, no truck noises. I slept soundly and didn’t wake up until 5.20. Nor did anyone else. It was… Read more
Day 07 – Intense Driving and Waterfall Swimming
It was moving on day – time to leave the northern lowland jungle for some hilltop forest on our way to the Caribbean coast. We had a few hours drive which Jenny was keen to do. From the nearby main town of Puerto Viejo, we took the Ruta 4, mostly dual carriageway, fairly empty but… Read more
Day 08 – Relaxing While the Ants Do the Work
We thought there was going to be more to do at Pacuare River Lodge. This might have been my mistake. At the end of the same four-wheel drive track is Pacuare Lodge a four star venue where the cabins are called villas. This offers canopy tours, indiginous tribe visits and zip line activities. It would… Read more
Day 09 – Road to the Coast and Cocktails
After last night’s early night, I was awake at 2.30 am. I’d slept for six hours, and that appeared to be enough. I’d stopped worrying about being eaten by things. Instead, I was listening to all the noises: the chirping frogs, the rasping grasshoppers, the occasional barking dog, and the sound of the river. There… Read more
Day 10 – Snorkeling, Beaches and Fish Supper
We mentioned to Roberta, the hotel owner (who was rushing around running the breakfast service), that we were interested in a snorkelling trip. Balancing her phone against her ear while she collected plates, she spoke to Jose – the man who organised these things for her. Before Sarah could have any second thoughts, she had… Read more