Awake at a civilised 8am, ready for a day of wandering Sofia. First breakfast at the Rainbow Café, as suggested by Sarah’s newest, bestest friend, ChatGPT. Despite using my oldest, bestest friend, Google Maps, we walked straight past thanks to its “don’t-come-in-here” entrance, complete with person lounging outside having a fag.
Inside, a different story: cosy tables, friendly counter service, tasty breakfasts washed down with espressos so small they were gone in one sip. Fortified, time to explore.
First, more of Sofia’s Roman ruins: Serdica, linking to those from last night, but this morning’s section preserved under glass domes
I rather liked the frescoe reproduced here of Krum the Conqueror — Khan of the first Bulgarian kingdom after the Romans. Who can’t admire a nation founded by someone called Krum.
From here it was churches galore: a tiny Roman-era chapel, Sofia’s oldest, nestled amongst the Presidential Quarter and amidst its own Roman ruins.
Inside was a strict “no shorts showing the knees” policy — mine were nearly alright, if I could just pull them down a bit — not sure how wearing shorts gangsta-style helped show proper respect either.
The Russian Church was stunning, so ornate, similarly strict rules inside — no photographs allowed.
Then onto the big one — the famous Alexander Nevsky Cathedral. Sarah found it ostentatious, bulbous, almost vulgar, but I enjoyed the sumptousness. It wasn’t old — late 19th century — testament to a new, proud, independent Bulgarian nation, free of muslim Ottomans. It had been a long time since Khan Krum.
Inside: gold, frescoes, icons — blingtasmagoria — proof God never gets the budget version. And take as many photographs as you like here — show the world the glory that is Bulgaria.
After some parks and galleries, we retreated to Vitosha Boulevard for beers and people-watching. Sadly, one man started blasting phone sounds ruining the vibe. I told him he was annoying —the wonders of global English — he understood what I’d said!
For dinner, a superb Italian meal, at Osteria Tartufo. Great food, sensible portion sizes leaving room for dessert — the best tiramisu ever.
After that a late browse in a bookshop-bar, the Green Witch, back on Vitosha Boulevard, concluding with a nice glass of rose.
By evening, we were happily tired, Sofia still buzzing outside, and us sadly planning to move on tomorrow.